It’s funny how the things that were once shocking and unsettling can easily become familiar. It’s kind of like when you walk into an area that has a strong smell that eventually becomes undetectable, or an idea that you once detested that one day becomes a welcoming thought.
I’ve been here in Addis Ababa for six months now, and some of the things that were once the source of my culture shock, have become familiar and in some cases esteemed.
I was initially overwhelmed with the amount of people that live in Addis, and the sights that I daily saw. It was a city that was built for 400,000 and now 8 million people inhabit it. When you drive along the streets of Addis, your sights are drawn to the many people who are walking about. Not only are your eyes drawn to the multitudes of people, but you also see livestock everywhere. There are often donkeys carrying heavy loads on their backs or a herd of goats or sheep being herded by their owners. There are people carrying heavy loads, women with babies on their backs, and friends walking alongside one another holding hands. You observe the sights and you realize that these people experience a life much different from the one you have come to know. I now know that I have never known true hard work or labor. However, they do not seem to be embittered by the reality of their lives. In many cases they seem to be some of the most joyful and warmhearted people I know.
The Ethiopian people and their culture are unique and beautiful. Many of their faces are filled with smiles, and they get so much pleasure from a welcomed smile or acknowledgement. As a foreigner, you get many looks of curiosity. People will often shout “foreinge” or “you, you, you” when they see us, but out of fascination not disdain. If you speak back to them, their faces light up with smiles all the way up to their eyes. When you respond in the same way by saying the equivalent “habisha” or “antes, antes, antes” they laugh in amusement!
Greetings are so important, and often very affectionate. The people have a way of making you feel loved from the moment they see you and greet you. Initially, I was uncomfortable with the greetings because I was never quite sure what to do. Whenever I meet a woman in whom I am acquainted, I am greeted with usually 3 cheek to cheek embraces, sometimes more or less. Whenever I meet a man I am acquainted with, I shake his hand and we touch shoulder to shoulder and embrace in a slight hug. When meeting someone for the first time, usually you shake their hands, although sometimes if they are a close friend to your friend you might have a similar greeting as you would with an acquaintance. When meeting someone, a person will often show you respect by extending their right hand, while placing their left hand in the crease of their elbow. It seems that every gesture or greeting is important to the person and always warm. I love the tenderness shown to one another, and my heart is still touched when a stranger shows their respect towards me.
At first glance, traditional habisha food did not look appetizing to my American eyes or palate. I can remember my first experience with Ethiopian food. There were these rolls of injera stacked up on a plate, with spoonful’s of lentils or colorful meat filled (what looked like) porridge splattered on an unrolled piece of injera. I had made a silent request to God before ripping a piece of injera and pinching, with my fingers, a very small portion of food and putting it in my mouth. I was immediately surprised by the taste of the food; it wasn’t as bad as I had imagined, but I couldn’t imagine ever choosing to eat it. However, now I eat it about once a week, and I’ve come to enjoy it!
I have made reference to the driving in Addis before, and it was once very unsettling for me. However, now as long as I know where I am going, I enjoy driving here. People do things here that you only wish you could do in America. For example, when there is a traffic jam on the interstate, the thought goes through your mind I’m sure, about getting over on the shoulder and passing up the traffic. No one in their right mind would attempt that unless maybe for an emergency, but here it would not be out of the ordinary for someone to try it! I laugh to myself when I see these things happen. You will also be glad to know that I am learning to use my horn more frequently. I’m still not using it like a local would, but I’m getting there.
In America, I have become accustomed to many luxuries that aren’t a given in other countries. For example, high speed internet, constant power, or running water. Because there are so many people living in the city, some of these amenities have to be rationed. I have resolved some of my frustration with the internet usage by buying a high speed mobile internet stick, but it is still not always consistent. There are some days when I go to turn my light on to find that it won’t come on. This has become so familiar that it doesn’t even faze me. No running water is still hard to swallow, but not the end of the world. Luckily, since I have been here, we have not gone more than a day or two without running water. We have water set aside for these times, and you come to truly find out what you are made of. I don’t find myself regretting my decision to move to a third world country during these times; if anything, it’s a blessing because I am reminded of what really does matter in life. Sometimes there is no greater blessing than being humbled and reminded that God is all you need, and He will provide the rest!
I could go on about the realities of living in Ethiopia. It’s a country that I have come to cherish, and it will always be dear to my heart. I’ve learned so much about life, love, and the meaning of true joy. I only hope everyone gets a chance to find their own Ethiopia: a place that touches your heart and causes you to never be the same!
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